Rather than continue clogging up Peat's carrot grow log, decided to move this conversation. 
This topic got very long with discussions... Jump to pictures, or a how-to summary.
Are you making your own or buying one of the bespoke AG starter trays?
I think anything you start in an AG will grow like crazy, it's the best thing you can do for a seed - a great beginning in life.
Making my own, ish. A 48" 2-bulb T8 flourescent fixture, hung from a sturdy plastic utility shelf. Possibly keep it in the garage for the first month or so - the shelves are already in the garage, and the first round of seedlings are mostly cool weather plants (pansies and snapdragons). The few warmer, bigger plants for the kozy coats experiment, I could start as AG outriders. The later heat-loving crop plants (tomato, pepper, eggplant) I might start directly in my pro100 with just the 7 holes, after giving my latest greens garden a couple months. Cucurbits need no special treatment - they're super-easy to germinate. And move the seed starting lights indoors by the time the warm-weather seedlings need 'em - the cool weather plants can go outside by then. (Well, maybe not the snaps, but it won't do them any harm to be warmer.) Planning out the seedling starting is strangely complex...
Yeah, the AG's definitely give seeds a great kick-start. But they can't stay in there long, if I plan to grow the plants out in soil. And for cucurbit starting, it's a waste of prime AG real estate. And for this long parade of seed-starting - there's a different batch of seeds every 2 weeks or so, spread over months. Not really willing to use a whole AG for that, when a $25 or so wonky light rig (or none...) will do. Most of these seedlings I managed last year without hardware.
Sounds as though you have it all wrapped up. Embarrassing, had to look up cucurbits as I have never heard of them. My trusty Thompson & Morgan site has little in the way of these seeds, only a hybrid pumpkin.
Did you get a particular colour temperature for your T8, i.e. for vegetative it's 5000 degrees Kelvin?
Ah. Just felt kinda dumb calling 'em "cukes&zukes" all the time. Unfortunately, "squash" seems to exclude "cuke". You know what I mean, though, right? "Squash-cuke-melon family".
Haven't actually bought this stuff yet. Assorted websites say assorted things... People who do it all the time seem to buy "cool white" by the 10-pack. I think that's more like 4200K. But others suggested add a full spectrum daylight t8 bulb, which is 6500K? Maybe one of each to hedge my bets?
Edit: Hm. Another page seems to suggest "daylight" = 5000K.
I'm still not very up on all this... they make flourescents weirdly complicated.
I know what you mean, I've now taught myself all about growing cucurbits.
4000K & 4200K for normal vegetative growth, 5000K for enhanced vegetative growth & 6500K to mimic natural daylight (full spectrum) - good for all stages.
Hmm, won't do any harm if you use both types, but, if you are purely growing veg. then probably stick to 4200K. It's sorta more suited to this stage and not a 'jack of all trades' 6500K
Sounds like the most all-purpose setup would then be one of each, 4200K and either-daylight (5000K or 6500K, whichever they have cheapest...)
6500K would give me the option to try using it for cucurbits some other time, though... But two t8 bulbs probably isn't enough light for a cucumber to bear fruit, do you think?
But I decided to stop dreaming up expensive fruiting rigs, and instead stick to the possibly much-cheaper task at hand - start strong seedlings.
Your two T8's will output more than my two Classic 25 watt AG ones, so, I reckon you will be OK.
If I can get my cucumber to fruit in the AG, then your cuke should be fine. Unless you are growing it really high, unlike mine, when the bottom leaves may be a little light starved? I've noticed my bottom leaves are dying off now - no light down there, they are in the shade from all the newer top growth which is flourishing.
FWIW, seeds I managed last year without a seed-starting light rig : pansies, petunias, spinach, dill, basil, cucumbers, zucchini. The earlier seedlings (pansies, petunias, and snapdragons) spent some time nestled between AG minis for overflow light. But mostly I started these by my west-facing slider, where it's 55-65 degrees in midwinter. (Only pansies started in midwinter...)
The cukes and zukes were only inside to sprout at a warmer temperature - they didn't stay inside more than a week or two. It's just that the same week or two would have taken 3-4 weeks outside.
Seeds that didn't work or I wouldn't even attempt without better lights: snapdragon (failed last year - they get very leggy without enough light!), tomato, pepper, eggplant.
(Cross-posted.) Huh, I didn't realize the AG Classic / Pro100 bulbs were 25 watt. Yeah, the t8's are 32W each, I think?
What I was thinking, if I attempted indoor fruiting cuke, was to arrange the light sort-of vertically. Like maybe on a slant above the plant, with some reflective draping for warmth and light collection. 48" wide bulbs wouldn't do so as much good hung above a plant.
It's the first cross-post for a while, luckily they don't happen often.
What you need to design now is a vertical cylinder with internal vertical lights - sorted. 
That's kinda what I pictured for a cucumber-growing rig. A light cage.
But, for that, I'd need 3-4 lightstrips, instead of the cheapo 48" 2-bulb fixture. (I haven't found any in person below $25, though homedepot.com claims to have a fixture for $9.) Lightstrips cost more.
Plus the cost of... I guess you could use a tomato cage for the cage, with floor protectors somehow...
I saw a picture online once, of someone growing normal-sized cukes in their basement. That was hilarious - he had one of those metal halide or HPS growlights above, plus side flourescents, and had the cuke sucker vines trussed out like a man hanging there, caught in a web, in all these spotlights. I guess it could work... 
All this talk of cukes again has decided me. I'm growing multiple cucumber plants this summer anyway. One of my kozy coats can attempt to grow an early cuke instead of eggplant, and see what happens. The package does suggest using them for earlier melons. I'm still not sure I believe it'll actually result in fruit more than 1-2 weeks early, for a cuke. I only attempted cantaloupe once in the melon family. Took all summer and got a single fruit, smaller than a baseball.
Compare that to a growbox dedicated to delivering 50-100 lbs of tomatoes, or 35 lbs each zucchini and cukes, or... Granted, a growbox could probably deliver 50+ lbs of melons, too, but that's not very many, and melons are cheap.
I like the idea of a cuke cage with a few vertical 48" lamps, it just might work really well and would be a beautiful thing to behold. My grow tent grew out of an idea to hang a 48" 4 tube T5 setup in front of 3 AGs hung on the wall one above the other. My info on fluorescent lights said to use the 6400*K ones for growth and 3000*K for blooming. I've got my chiles under 4 6400* tubes and they're doing well. I'll swap a couple of them for 3000* tubes in a few weeks to encourage flowering then go to all 4 being 3000* to finish them off. I think I'd use the daylight bulbs to start seeds but doubt it would really matter.
Thanks, Bruce! Very helpful!
I think that's essentially what I was reading online - that for seedlings it doesn't greatly matter whether you use cool white or daylight, though the higher-K is the correct one (but more expensive).
OK! My new seedling lights are set up!
Now let's see if it works...
Not nearly as fancy as your rig, Bruce, but hopefully it'll do the job for under $35 + odds and ends I already had. $35 included light fixture from Home Depot with 4 T8 bulbs, of which only 2 are in use - one each, 4100K and 6500K. If I'd used only one type of bulb & a Walmart-cheapest fixture, probably could have gotten it under $20. Added reflective blankets, front and back. Though the front one only goes down partway - more to shield my eyes than increase light.
Though T5 bulbs are generally considered better for growlights, T8 is better for this application, according to my research...
- They're cheaper.
- They should provide adequate light for the task.
- T8 bulbs work better when cold. A T5 bulb is supposedly only going to give like 50% of its maximum light at 50°F, with optimum temps more like 80°F.
The lamp's plugged into a timer, currently set for ~13 hours a day (seemed like enough). The rig is in my garage, which feels colder, but the thermometer says is 50°F today. The pansy seed packet said to grow them at those temps, and the lettuce shouldn't mind... Relative humidity is approximately bone dry. Oh, well.
To test whether the light is adequate, installed one of my twin Korean red curl outriders in the new setup. They get red & glossy when they get enough light. Light green and thin with low light.
When it comes time to start the warm-weather crops... Hopefully it'll be warmer.
(It doesn't get much colder than it is now here - teens outside, ice rimming the Sound.) But mostly, I'm hoping the seed-light rig works well enough to evict my greens outriders into the garage and use the warm outrider spots for starting tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, etc. Failing that, I could move the top level of the utility shelves inside. But it looks better in the garage. 
Great work gisette, I wish you all the best for this. The height adjustment mechanism puts all the manufactured ones to shame, who needs fancy hangers and rails. 
You have the same sloping T5's as Bruce, are these a special variety you can buy for this purpose. 
I suspect they'll bend over time. But I have several hundred. I think I got them from a bunch of kids who tried to build a treehouse in a young cherry tree. I pointed out it wasn't their cherry tree, and not big enough in any case. They skeddaddled, leaving me all these nice nails.
Sloping T8's, though. 
So far so good. The PAR detector lettuce hasn't died yet. 
Great setup all around!! I love imagination in place of $$$. You won't have any trouble with your tilting mechanism
and the T8s will do just fine, you've got about 3/4 of my T5 setup for 1/5 the price. They run cooler too, which can be good or bad, depending on what you need. If you wanted more heat, you could make a top frame from stiff wire big enough to enclose everything then hang a mylar survival blanket or two over it, making a grow tent in essence for about $5. Can't wait to see your results.
They run really cool - cool to the touch! (Granted, the garage is chilly.
) I do have survival blanket drapes in place just for light, not heat. (I'd flipped up the front one to take pictures.) That same, what $2? survival blanket I'm still lopping pieces out of - LOL! Those things are big! 
It's a good point though - sometime I might want to make it warmer and not move it into my living space. Charming as it is...
Kinda big...
Love those survival blankets. I'm sure you know the ballast puts out more heat than the lamps so enclosing it all would raise the temp more than you'd think.50* sounds downright chilly to me. I just checked my T5 tubes with an IR gun and they're 113*F. Ain't experimenting fun? I'll go a little farther with decor than you would - thank god you got rid of the howling coyotes, you have taste - but drew the line at my buddy keeping his Harley in his apartment.
Wow re 113F T5 tubes!
Oh, I don't think the T8's are 50F. They're just cool to the touch. No noticeable heat above the rig, either, but then.... I'm not sure by hand I could feel the difference between 50 and say, 60...
They're cool.
A Harley indoors is definitely overstated.
The howling coyote actually worked, decor-wise - it just creeped me out. Those kokopeli's, or whatever-they're-called, are also kinda creepy, though I like them better.
I love kokopelis plus story teller, eagle dancer and clown kachinas, my old GF and I had about 50. There's a certain turquise and a reddish tan color that seem to identify with NM, along with the deep red of a red chile ristra..
I turned off my vent fan in the tent again to try something different and when I took the lamp temp it was about 78* and 98% RH inside. I'm going to see if the temp will burn off some humidity. I had a flower drop off one of the chiles and decided to experiment some more. I want 'em all to make chiles!
EDIT... It's only been a few minutes but I can edit this post. There must be a time limit.
EDIT... five minutes.
EDIT... five more minutes - the post time changes every time I edit. First post was about 45 minutes after gisette's post above - :20 after the hour
EDIT... One hour later, shrimp salad was yummy.
EDIT... five hours since I first posted. dunno why I'm doing this here... Note the time change every time I edit.
Wonder if a new post would eliminate the ability to edit? With the vent fan off for about 8 hours the temp hit 80 and RH stayed at 98%. The hottest spot I found on the lights was 135*F! Within 5 minutes of turning the vent back on the RH has dropped to 54% and temp down to 76*.
EDIT... nope, I can still edit my post above.
It's hard for me to tell, Bruce. I can edit anything anytime I'm logged in as gisette...
My next thought was that the edit ability died when someone else posted. Nope, I still have edit buttons on my two posts above yours.
Seed light bio sensor reports lights good.
(It's a qualitative PAR sensor.
)
Actually, judging by Bruce's and my photos of this plant vs. Aerogarden Pro100 and Deluxe lights, my seed-starting light rig is 'brighter' than the Aerogardens. (Meaning more PAR = photosynthetically active radiation.) (Yes, Peat, re the higher wattage [64 watt T8's vs 50 watt CFL's for our pro/classics] - but remember these lights are 4' long - so you might expect less light per square foot. And they're on 13 hours a day to the AG's 17 or so. But it seems to be getting more light - the T8's are brighter than CFL's. From the point of view of red lettuce, of course. But lettuce redness happens to be a better indicator than lumens and Kelvin for what I'm trying to accomplish.
)
FWIW, the left hand side of the lettuce (which seems greener still) is the daylight bulb side. The daylight (6500K) bulb seems dimmer than the 4100K bulb. Dunno why.
Oh! I picked up both pairs of bulbs while walking on carpet, and it was the coolest light show! I was holding them by the middle, not the ends, but the static raced along the bulbs and the lights played.
Ghostly!
This plant at the seed store: (presumably grown in daylight)
Edited: added more days to the timeline.
Well, I think the Korean red curl test plant has completed its adjustment to the seed lights - it's not getting much redder any more. I'm very pleased with this plant.
After 9 weeks, it never bolted in the warm kitchen, just as happy in the cool garage, changes color and shininess to adjust to conditions - fun plant. 
And I'm pleased with the seed lights. The pansies are quite happy, too, but pansy seedlings grow slowly - 7-21 days just to germinate, and 8-12 weeks to grow into 3" tall annuals ready to transplant out. Only about half the seeds have germinated yet (23 out of 26 pots have at least one seedling).
Something you may/may not know, with the T8's and any other lights, it's actually the lumens (light intensity) you need to look at - not the wattage. I know, I started it first with the AG bulbs... 
An incandescent 100 watt light will put out about 175 lumens (onto a page 1 foot away), but, replace this with 100 watt sodium and you will get upwards of 4,000 lumens!
I think our AG bulbs are 1450 lumens, compare that with your T8's for brightness. 
Interesting. My seed-light bulbs both claim 2800 lumens. But - that's not per unit area, right? But rather overall bulb output. For a square foot, you can pretend an AG light is a point source and all 1450 lumens are applied to that square foot. For two four foot long bulbs, not. You'd expect 5800 lumens over something like 4 square feet (using the same disregard for light scatter), which comes out to 1450 lumens again. But, fluorescents have different light output at different temps, and the garage is chilly, so... I can't find the chart offhand again, but 50 vs 75°F is supposedly a significant efficiency cut (80% vs 95%?). (Though the bulbs are probably somewhat warmer than the garage. But they and the ballast are cool to the touch.)
Given all that, I figure the plant is a more reliable indicator.
The seed lights seem to be accomplishing more light than the Aerogarden pro100.
I think the AG ones are 1450 lumens per bulb - total would then be 2900. That 1450 would be applied equally over that one square foot, then you have your reflector which will reduce it by another 10%, and then you have the distance - for every 1 foot away from your plant, you will lose half the light!
Why did I start this? Let's use your plant as a light meter instead. 
Ah, but the 1450's would be two point light sources over two different square feet. 
LOL! Yeah, that was kinda my point - with 6's of ones and half-dozens of others and triangulation and scatter and recaptured scatter - who knows.
The red plant says the light's brighter under the seed lights. And all I needed was, "It's bright enough for seedlings and lettuce!"
Red curl is apparently a fantastic light meter but is it liking a certain color spectrum or a certain lumen level? Hmmm? Aren't lumens rated at a point a certain distance from the light source, regardless of size? It's amazing seeing my red curl turn redder as we have salads and drop the lights then lighten when I raise the light before a raid so I'd say it's more of a lumen indicator than spectrum analyzer. Regardless, they're looking great gisette! I was just looking at the roots in the AG, the red curl has a lot less root mass than most of the others but dunno if it's because some have more plants per pod (PPP) like the heatwave mix or Simpson? I planted two pods of red curl last week, one 3 PPP and one 2 PPP so we'll see what happens.
I'm thinking the red curl might prefer the 4200K light over the 6500K light, red-wise. Seems slightly redder on the 4200K bulb side. But then, that bulb seems brighter, too. But mostly, yeah, seems like a simple lumen response.
I'm amazed how little root mass the KRC has. The tub on my komatsuna has over 4 times the volume, and it's chock-full of roots. Those tiny little KRC tubs (about 3.5 x 6.5", liquid only about 1.5" deep) don't seem to be root-crowded at all. I think that's true of lettuce in general, less rooty than brassicas. But the KRC is extreme.
Last week, I cropped the red curl pretty heavily, of leaves that pre-dated its move out to the cold garage seedling lights. It's grown back nicely. It does grow slower out there in the cold, and much more compacted and curly.
The pansy seedlings seem content. They grow ever so slowly.... over 3 weeks from planting seed, and still no true leaves. Some are still germinating. (And the packet said to allow up to 21 days for germination.)
That's OK. In a few more weeks, we'll get the February fake-spring, and the garage should warm up. I keep considering moving this array into a cool spot indoors in the meantime, but I'm enjoying it where it is.
On the off chance anybody cares, progress on the seed starting pageant is here. It doesn't show up on recent comments or posts, because I'm keeping all my reference pictures on the main book page.
Your red curl is beautiful! And it looks like the project is about to cover your shelf, nice.
Second that, very colourful, it's a shame to cut it down and eat it.
But it grows back. 
Mine is bigger than yours. 
Here is my new 125w light, 6400K, white/blue spectrum. I'm going to use it for a project with a rubbermaid container, aeroponic sprayer and net baskets filled with hydroton. I'll be building this and putting the details up here in due course...
It struck me a quite funny as it's similar to the AG bulb (at the bottom of the picture), only larger!
Yeah, but mine only uses 17 W for the heat mat and 64 W for the two bulbs.
Over lots more area. Granted that means my lights are weaker. But they're strong enough! For seedlings, at least.
I think I have a similar bulb, but in the soft white range. I tried to use it as my reading light in the living room, but it stuck blaring bare bulb out of the lamp shade for several inches. Now it's the overhead light in the garage.
Do you have a socket and reflector for this generous bulb?
Nice. So about the size of the rubbermaid tub ? (like 2-3 ft2 well-lit area?) What will you be suspending it from? May sound dumb, but every time I considered one of these light fixtures, I got kinda unhappy about the suspension problem.
Rubbermaid's aren't available over here, so, I've found a similar sort of container; not as deep as I wanted but it will do - just need to find it in the store first.
The best things you can get for suspension are Ezi-Roll light hangers, no messing around with chains - they can be individually adjusted for any height, pull the cord out (self retracts), and tighten up the wing nut when you have the correct distance.
Sorry, didn't know what to call the storage boxes. Usually call them Rubbermaid tubs (though most are not made by Rubbermaid, and the Rubbermaid company makes many shapes and sizes of plastic containers.)
Those hangers look nice. Wish I had the frame to hang 'em from instead of the ceiling. 
hey how do u guys get ur pics into the slide show like that?
Still not as easy to make lightboxes (slide shows) as I'd like... somewhat easier if you use Picasa. See here.
Omg!!! I tried to read & understand this thread & my head hurts.
Um can yall just tell me that... I can get a few 6500k daylight CFL bulbs in a lamp & be ok to grow my chives, cilantro, parsley, sweet peppers, strawberries, mini tomatoes & jalapenos in miracle grow potting soil around, in between next to 2 of my AG3 & under the reflecto survival blanket & I be ok ?
I would really love & appreciate it
Um, two answers. Take your pick. 
1. Yes, you could get a few CFL daylight bulbs in however many lamps it takes... Beth and Bruce got good daylight spotlights at a good price from Big Lots. I don't have a Big Lots store near me.
2. Consider the quantity of stuff you just listed - the herbs don't take up much space (one CFL), but the strawberries, tomatoes, and two kinds of peppers - take more space (2-3 CFL's.)
a. You don't need any lights for the herbs - just put 2 pots between 2 AGs, and you already have 2 sets of 2 AGs - voila, you already have lighted habitat for 4 potted herbs.Or possibly 3 potted herbs between one pair of AG's, and one (1) of the other things between the other two, with one bonus CFL.
b. CFL daylight bulbs and their lamps and/or reflectors, cost more than the seed-light shelf I set up. I used 4' lamps. You could also choose 2' lamps. Possibly doubled - 2 sets of 2' lamps, for a brighter 2' long shelf.
I think the key here is to look at your living space and decide what parts of it you want converted to farming cubic. And... consider growing some things in series instead of in parallel.
At least while ramping up...
There's a tendency among gardeners to overplant, and then get kinda burnt out.
I understand about the burn out. That happened to me in January when the 1st tomato plant was not growing and the beans plants were not making beans. I got a bit frustrated b/c AG CS couldn't help me figure out what was wrong. They just sent me new pods. I think the help you guys provide on this forum is priceless.
I got into growing my own food for health & weight reasons and b/c I love to cook. In another life, I totally would be a chef. The quality of ingredients matters alot to me. Having grown up in the city all my life, I couldn't believe the taste difference btw store bought basil and the basil I grow myself, in color, texture and taste. I can only imagine the taste of everything else I will grow. What started out as an experiment is not a major part of my lifestyle so whatever I have to do I will do! As soon as I placed my order for my stuff I made room for everything that was coming. Have 2 AG3s set up in 2 different corners opposite sides of the living room.
The strawberry pot is a 13" galvanized (indoor) windowsill tray kit so thats going in my bay window which blinds me every sunny morning b/c it faces directly east. http://www.buzzyseeds.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=166
The cilantro & parsley pots are a 6" plastic pots and the chive pot is a 6 1/4" terra cotta pot which I would put in btw 2 AG3 that have lettuce & herbs right now.
Then the mini tomato pot (6" plastic pot), http://www.buzzyseeds.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=120
The sweet pepper pot (6" plastic pot), http://www.buzzyseeds.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=168
and the jalapeno pot (I would make myself out of the seeds AG) is sending me..
would go in btw & next to my other 2 AG3s with the green beans & red cherry tomato.
I have thought long and hard & I definitely have a plan! LOL!
So based on what you have told me I think I only need two lamps with 2 6500k CFLs shining toward the sweet peppers, jalapeno & potted tomato plant and the reflector blanket to keep it all from blinding me! LOL! ![]()
Wait one more question... when I say lamp & CFL I mean something simple like this...
Clip-On Desk Lamp
http://www.amazon.com/Grandrich-Clip%252dOn-Desk-Lamp%252d-Black/dp/B000...
CFL
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Smart-60-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B000NISDNU/...
or
http://www.changethelight.org/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=4&osC...
what do u mean when you say lamp & CFL? 


LOL! Didn't think you had that much light space, to keep 'em! (Regarding the carrots.
)
Lately I've been plotting a seed-starting light rig, for starting my spring / summer outdoor gardens. I wonder how good it'll be for greens...